Do your bands fit Apple Watch Series 3?
Absolutely they do! Apple didn't make any changes to the connection mechanism in the latest generation of their watch.
Are your bands sweat and waterproof?
For our steel and aluminum bands, most definitely. We use only 316L stainless steel or 6000 series, hard anodized aluminum on our metal bands. These metals can withstand your daily workout routines or a dip in the ocean or pool.
As with the Apple Watch itself, just rinse the bands under tap water to wash off the sweat, salt water or chlorine and you're good to go!
For our leather bands, treat them as you would any fine leather product; keep them dry as much as possible and you should be able to enjoy them for a long time.
How to remove extra links for sizing
(Revo and Locarno)
We constructed each steel band to use screws rather than cheaper friction pins that so many bracelets use, so it’s also not difficult to do yourself. We also include a screwdriver with every band you purchase. Here's a video to demonstrate the link removal process:
(Ligero, Vitero, Velo and Qrono)
In our aluminum bands, we've custom designed and developed a proprietary adjustment tool that's very easy to use. With the additional customization of using concave caps pins (more here), you'll be able to resize your aluminum band in just a few minutes and can use it right away, right out of the box.
How to insert the metal bands into the Apple Watch
We made one needed modification to the endpiece mechanism, so installing the bands just require a simple push of each locking mechanism to insert the ends into the Watch, as this quick video demonstrates:
Do you accept credit cards?
Yes we do! When you're checking out, rather than clicking on the PayPal button right away (you still can later if you change your mind), just click the "CHECKOUT" button as shown below and the 3rd step ("PAYMENT") will allow you to input your credit card details.
Why does my credit card get rejected?
We're using the credit card processor Stripe and have set our security settings to the highest level. While we don't know all of the reasons why they (Stripe and in conjunction with your bank) may reject your card, one thing you can try is this: you'll need to type out your details exactly as your credit card bill has it. For instance, if your account states "street", you can't type "st." in our order form in the credit card details section. It needs to be word for word.
Unfortunately, we've been scammed out of thousands of dollars before, so we need to set our security settings to the highest levels. Sorry for the inconvenience.
I've seen cheaper bands on the market; what's the difference?
Many of the other bands use a cheaper folded steel buckle and most would use cheaper friction pins for the adjustable links (where we use screws and will provide a screwdriver for so that you can do it yourself).
The other difference, which may or may not be discernible, is the level of fit and finish. We can take the same design and make them in two different factories, resulting in very different costs. The cheaper factory’s band may look similar from a distance, but it’s probable that their polishing, fit and finish will not be as precise as the one costing more where the workers are better trained and paid, the factory has a stricter QC standard (which leads to more rejects and hence, higher costs), etc. Better made watch components will have a better finish even in the areas that aren't exposed with normal usage. This is one of the reasons why Swiss and other higher end watches cost more.
We'd like to stress again that our metal bands are made in factories that also manufacture for Swiss brands. If their quality wasn't the best, these Swiss companies wouldn't entrust their reputation to these factories. Put another way, if these Swiss companies went to cheaper factories and offered the same amount of money to make a component, chances are, these cheaper factories couldn't produce at the quality needed to pass their Swiss QC standards. Many factories are efficient at making the appropriate quality because of the way they're set up (machinery, worker training/skills, etc.) but it's not quite so easy to just "up" the quality if they aren't built for that.
These seemingly small differences add up to a much more luxurious experience.
Our Custom Capsa Pins
How to adjust and use the leather band deployant buckles:
How does your Revo band compare to Apple's Link?
Apple’s Link is claimed to take 9 hours each to make (and costs so much) because they need to CNC machine many of their components to build that quick release link mechanism, which few in the watch industry would ever do because of the costs involved with a feature that’s only used once (for bracelet sizing). You may have Apple Store staff showing you that they use the quick release mechanism to also ease the bracelet removal from the watch, but if you did both sides at the same time (as you do with ours), it's not a necessary procedure.
In terms of the brushed finish, we use a fine satin finish that should be very similar to Apple's, and is a standard finish that we use in the watch industry. As a reminder, the sides of our bands will be polished, unlike Apple’s which is brushed, so that it’ll be a really nice match with the Apple Watch case when viewed from the side.
Our Revo band is over 87 grams, so it’s very solid. The Apple Link feels lighter, but that’s because it’s thin and not completely solid (because of the components in the locking mechanism for some of the links). This isn't a criticism of the Apple Link band though, because they've engineered a very complex and costly quick release mechanism that we in the watch industry have never done before.
Design-wise, our Revo band is made up of rectangular links, whereas the Link's links (for lack of a better term) have a curvature on the ends. This is just a design preference that each person will need determine which is more ideal for them. We did not want to get into the copycat game to just make exactly what Apple makes because we feel that our design differentiation adds value to our brand.
In figure A above, we have a standard cotter pin that's found on most metal watch bracelets. When you see directional arrows on the back of the bracelet links, this is what's usually used (or friction pins that are very similar). These can only get pushed out in one direction, hence the arrows. This is the cheapest possible way to connect links together. Since this type of pin relies on putting outward pressure on the hole, it works for steel but not as well for aluminum. These are also susceptible to bending and breaking, even sometimes upon first use.
In figure B, this is called a capsa pin, which is comprised of a tube that's inserted into the link, then the solid steel pin is inserted into the tube. You can see that both the pin and the tube are crimped in the middle, so when these two sections line up, they click into place and form a very solid lock. This type of pin can be used and re-used more often as it doesn't put any pressure on the link's holes. This is perfect for aluminum links.
In figure C, this is our type of capsa pin that we've asked the factory to produce for our links. It's pretty much the same as B, except you'll notice that we go to the extra effort and expense to make both ends of the pins concave, which requires extra steps during production.
What this does is that when you're using the pin tool (which we'll include), you won't need to keep fishing around for the hole and you'll connect very easily. Then you just push it out. If it was the flat type of pin (B) that's standard, you might be passing over the pin a few times trying to locate a good lock on it because it's more flush to the aluminum surface, and the result is that you might be potentially scratching up the aluminum band.